CHILE STRETCHES NEARLY THE FULL LENGTH OF SOUTH AMERICA AND WE TRAVELLED FROM THE VERY TOP TO THE VERY BOTTOM IN 17 DAYS. WE WERE MET AT SANTIAGO AIRPORT BY MARIO, OUR GUIDE - AN ARGENTINIAN NATURALIST WHO LECTURES AT HIS LOCAL UNIVERSITY - AND WHO PERSONALLY THINKS THE CHILIAN PEOPLE, AND I TEND TO AGREE WITH HIM, ARE AN UNPLEASANT BUNCH.
TO MY ANNOYANCE WE WERE STILL TO REACH OUR HIGHEST POINT - THE VILLAGE OF PARINACOTA AT A HEAD-SPLITTING 15,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL. WE ALL WERE SUFFERING FROM THE ALTITUDE AND THE LOCALS WELCOMED US WITH A CUP OF TEA - IN THE FORM OF HOT WATER AND SEVERAL FULL, DRIED LEAVES SLOWLY SOAKING. THEY LOOKED IDENTICAL TO BAY LEAVES, BUT I LATER LEARNED THAT THEY WERE COCA LEAVES - THE RAW INGREDIENT FOR COCAINE. IT DEFINATELY GOT RID OF OUR HEADACHES.
